Salema, Sagres and on to the Westernmost point in Europe

This Algarve coast is just sensational and trudging the coastal paths is a joy. Going further afield needs a car though and sticking to the back roads, hugging the coast and missing out the main routes is what it's about.


Our jaunt today took us westwards to the pretty seaside village of Salema which hugs the cliffs with houses seeming to hang precipitously over each other. Like much of the rest of Portugal, Salema was largely shut, although we found a beachside restaurant that was willing to serve us a coffee while we gazed at the sparkling sea. The road to Salema from Luz, through Burgau, is super - windy and precipitous in places, particularly where it dips down from one steep hillside to a creek which is crossed by a cobbled causeway. The new road that winds down the hillside is worth the whole drive. Then, once across the causeway, up steeply again to gain height before plunging down into Salema.

Refreshed, we drove on to find Sagres, but first, the Fortaleza de Sagres which is a huge edifice that comprises a huge curtain wall, separating the headland from the rest of the mainland. Inside is a pretty church and a good windy walk around the exterior, taking in the strange compass let into the courtyard, the wildlife and the rocky cliffs which drop away from its perimeter. In one spot, a deep blow hole can be seen, that has been eroded from the rock and penetrated inside the fortress area.

It's also a limestone pavement here, similar to the top of Malham Cove.

One interesting feature of the church is that instead of real votary candles, there is a clever machine that lights an artificial candle, if you put in sufficient money. Gabrielle's initial 50¢ did nothing, so a further 50¢ was added and, lo, there was light! Your mother would have been proud, Gabsie!

The place features many gun emplacements and, in one place, a whole load of old cannon. Gabrielle decided to pose with them a little more discreetly than Nick did. Well, there's a shock!

Looking westwards from the fort, there's a great view of the Cabo de Sao Vicente - Europe's most westerly point. So, we got back in the car and headed first into Sagres for something to eat. A rather disappointing place in winter, I'm afraid, but we found a little cafe which did omelette and chips. Bonzer. Then off to the Cape.

It's breezy here, where the south coast meets the west coast, but it's evidently good fishing territory because you can see many fishermen, although not usually perched quite as precariously above the waves as one guy we saw, who had come down a narrow ledge on the cliff and was fishing from about 20 metres above the crashing surf.

There's a lighthouse, the inevitable giftshop and a variety of other stuff at the Cape. It's worth a visit to say you've been. Then, a visit to another fort - Fortaleza de Belixe - which had no apparent way in for the public but you could spot an idyllic courtyard inside.

On the way back, we spotted a pottery shop - the Artesenato A Mó - that identified itself with all the plates that were screwed to its outside wall. The prices here were exceptionally low and products that sell in John Lewis are here at knock-down prices. Setting up home in Portugal? This place is worth a visit for pots, crocks, artwork and more.

So tired little teddy bears then headed for home. As you'll guess, Gabrielle has grabbed the wheel by this point as she can't go more than about 50km without wanting to be in charge! A beautiful sunny day with my beautiful sunny wife. Couldn't be better!